The New York Times

The Ultimate Marketplace; The World of Wearable Art
By Margery Stein:
Margery Stein is an editor for The Business World maga­zine of the New York Times
Published: November 12, 1989

No New York gallery currently repre­sents the work of Deborah Aguado, a Manhattan-based metal­smith, but her repu­ta­tion draws clients to her West Side studio. There, Ms. Aguado creates the haunting metal construc­tions that embody her ideas about illu­sion, perspec­tive and the spatial effects of light. In this world of mirrors, a pin may start life as a striped square of metal, then gradate into a gold triangle and wind up as a small silver slab; or grad­u­ated linear planes may suggest rail­road tracks that seem to advance or recede into infinity.

A signal feature of her pins, neck­laces and bracelets, which range from $200 to $10,000 and more, is their use of the free-cut stones of Bernd Munsteiner of Germany — tour­ma­lines, amethysts and other gemstones with perhaps a dozen differ­ently shaped sides. In Ms. Aguado’s most recent design, an 85-carat golden beryl is set smack in the middle of a circle of artic­u­lated silver hinges.

”Sometimes I work and don’t care if it sells,” says the artist. ”Risky as it is, that’s how I work best.’